City thread of the week: Newcastle

[Captain Crunch]

I'm thinking of moving to beautiful Newcastle and would like your help finding out more about the place.  Stuff like: 

Good places to live?
What are the music venues like?
Is the comedy any good?
Do football fans really have Chinese food after every game? (I wouldn't blame them)
Where is that one street with sixteen charity shops and three Greggs? 
And what's up with those big bastard rabbits at Manors station, some sort of local council tax dodge? 

So, please use your Talent Youniqueness Nerve and Enthusiasm to share your experiences.  TIA as they say in Fenham. 

[bgmnts]

Never been
Dunno
Dunno
Dunno
Maybe rabbits like it there.

[DrGreggles]

I like Newcastle.
One of my favourite cities.
With a couple of exceptions, it'll be better than where you currently live.

[Blue Jam]

Newcastle is one of the cities on my rather short list of Parts Of The UK I Could Happily Live In.

The pubs are really great, and good new places keep popping up
There is a branch of The Stand comedy club there- I've only ever been to the Edinburgh one so I don't know how it compares, but you will have options for comedy, and if you fancy a daytrip to Embra for the Fringe you can get there in 1hr 40 mins
The city is a good size and easy to get around by public transport
It's affordable
The people are friendly
I like the accent

Go for it...

[Sherringford Hovis]

My second-oldest friend (as in we've been solid mates since we were 11, he's not 97) moved up from Durham to live with his Newcastle-native fiancée in Wallsend 18 months ago and he LOVES it. He's generally an understated chap but has been uncharacteristically effusive about his new hometoon. Having met you a couple of times IRL, I'm reasonably confident in suggesting that they're a couple whose music/cultural tastes probably align fairly strongly with yours (all things dark, especially rivethead/EBM/goth/metal/alternative etc; also with a penchant for following NMA and Ferocious Dog around to numerous shows) - they go out 2-3 nights every week yet still lament that they haven't got enough time to see everything they want to see.

One potential down-side: he's a youth social-worker and though he says it's the best-resourced place he's ever been, he also reckons that it's also the most stretched too. So if being a 21st century Fagin is your thing, I for one welcome our new feral-kid overlords.

[Neville Chamberlain]

I'd never been to Newcastle before, but I drove through the city a couple of months ago (specifically to get to Heaton). The SatNav took me over the Tyne Bridge, which was a pleasant surprise. My impression of Newcastle? Positive.

I also saw the Angel of the North. I was expecting it to be located on a barren, windswept hill miles from anywhere, but it was actually located on what was more of a hillock in the middle of a housing estate. Despite that, though, it was genuinely quite impressive.

[pancreas]

I'm thinking of moving to beautiful Newcastle and would like your help finding out more about the place.  Stuff like: 

Good places to live?

Ouseburn, Quayside (Newcastle or Gateshead side) for flats, Jesmond for houses, Gosforth for houses if you're minted, Fenham if on a budget. It is possible to live at the coast if you really like that sort of thing. The metro goes there, but it's somewhat unreliable.

What are the music venues like?

Good. Sage Gateshead is where I tend to go because I like classical. Theatre Royal puts on Operas from Opera North 2-3 times a year. But the Sage puts on music of all hues. For jazz, there's the Jazz Café, the Bridge Hotel, the Globe. Gig venues: The Cluny has something nearly every night, things upstairs at the Cumberland Arms. There are bigger venues like the O2, MetroRadioArena and so on, but tends not to be my thing. Some stuff on at the City Hall and the Tyne Theatre and Opera House.

Is the comedy any good?

The Stand is the main venue. But people also play in the Tyne Theatre and the City Hall. I guess it's on the circuit. Of course, as with everything else, Sunderland (in partic. The Empire) is 30 mins on the metro.

Do football fans really have Chinese food after every game? (I wouldn't blame them)

Dunno. Chinatown is v. close to St James Park.

Where is that one street with sixteen charity shops and three Greggs? 

Grainger St or Clayton St I guess.

And what's up with those big bastard rabbits at Manors station, some sort of local council tax dodge?

No idea.

I can give you a run-down of many of the pipe organs if that is of use.

[hummingofevil]

I'm thinking of moving to beautiful Newcastle and would like your help finding out more about the place.  Stuff like: 

Good places to live?
What are the music venues like?
Is the comedy any good?
Do football fans really have Chinese food after every game? (I wouldn't blame them)
Where is that one street with sixteen charity shops and three Greggs? 
And what's up with those big bastard rabbits at Manors station, some sort of local council tax dodge? 

So, please use your Talent Youniqueness Nerve and Enthusiasm to share your experiences.  TIA as they say in Fenham.

Toon resident of 15 years here. So I'm not blinkered Geordie but know place inside out.

1. Heaton is the sweet spot to live. Cheap enough, lots of nice things but not too rough, too mental or too full of students. If you want cheaper then Wallsend is cheap as chips and get good sized housing for fuck-all (3-storey house for £90k) and fine. It's very old-school working class (the best pub is a Wetherspoons) but the Metro takes you anywhere reasonable within 20-30 mins.

If you a bit more la-dee-da Jesmond is posh and studenty and Gosforth is big bourgeois houses. Both fine. You've also got Whitley Bay and Tynemouth that see to be on the up with plenty of money coming in. But like most genuinely nice places they attract a certain Audi type that I can't tolerate for too long.

2. Thé Métro. Main bit is basically one big loop with branches to airport, South Shields and Sunderland. It's not bad and runs till about midnight. I have mates who live in shitter parts of North Tyneside in £60k flats right next to Metro who love it as you can get anywhere quickly.

3. Music is fine. You get the big Arena stuff that you get anywhere else and fairly thriving independent /DIY scene. Off top of my head there are 8 independent record shops so that pretty good. Town centre culture dominated by bars as it's massiveiy popular place to visit on piss but Ouseburn is hanging on in there as genuine independent pub/music area in face of increasing development. Only thing you won't get is the mid-level acts who seem to do Glasgow/Manchester and then Leeds outside London.

4. The Stand is a great comedy club (arguably the best room for comedy in country). Runs most nights. I'm on a bit of a downer on it at moment as it seems to rely a bit to much on the local talent it's developed over last 5 years but that me being unfair.

5. Newcastle has one of everything culture-wise. Theatre Royal for RSC/Opéra, Live for new writing, People's is largest amateur theatre in country, Sage concert hall for concerts, Baltic for contemporary art (though it's shit compared to say, Tate Liverpool), Tyneside Cinema for Independent film.

6. Shield's Road in Byker is your street with all pubs, Greggs and Poundshops. It gets bad rep. The leisure centre there is great and whilst some of pubs are a bit rough there not one of them you couldn't go and have a pint in (actually Jackson's terrifies me but that's the staff).

7. My tip would be to try to avoid all things NUFC unless you are a fan. Nothing puts you off Geordies quicker than having 50,000 of them moaning. They genuinely believe they are the BEST FANS IN THE WORLD which is immediately disproven by them desperately repeating said mantra.

8. Related one is Geordies are friendly but no more so that most places. Many people confuse Geordiehospitality with fact they copped off with some other tourists hen-doers whilst fucked on coke (for first time since their kids were born) in Floritas or some other Geordie-Shore hell hole. The actual Geordies are two streets down supping decent beer in the Bodega or Free Trade.

Le me know if you need any more.

[Shoulders?-Stomach!]

Love Newcastle and the surrounding area. One of the few remaining places, a little like Sheffield where you can strike up a conversation with a total stranger as equals and find them good listeners and disproportionately charismatic funny people. Newcastle and Sheffield have made a positive mark on my social skills and my view of humanity.

Particularly pronounced effect, as I live in Leeds where the apparent default attitude of locals is Abrasive Twat.

[Neville Chamberlain]

...where you can strike up a conversation with a total stranger as equals and find them good listeners and disproportionately charismatic funny people.

You wait till you go to Yeovil!

[Nice Relaxing Poo]

I lived in Heaton for about a year and can recommend it as a place to live for those on a slightly lower budget. As the above poster said, it's not very posh but also not too rough, it has a nice vibrant atmosphere, a good mix of students and workers and is well situated. Generally avoid the West End of the city though unless it's changed in the 15 years since I lived there.


Edit: One thing I will say though is that I've always had a slight problem talking to Geordies, they're a friendly enough bunch but for some reason my sense of humour and theirs generally doesn't click, I have no idea why. I've met other people who've mentioned this and they've all grown up near to Newcastle like me (I'm from near Darlington) so maybe it's a local thing.

[manticore]

Do the Newcastle policemen still go around with special ridges on their tall helmets to make them look menacing? I didn't like that aspect of Newcastle when I went there in 1983. We saw their football team beat Cambridge United 2-1 and when Cambridge scored they applauded, though I think it was more a gesture of discontent with their own team than generousity towards the underdog.

The inhabitants are friendlier than most people imo, like Sheffielders as Shoulders says, and the accent is very pleasant to the ear.

[pancreas]

You forgot to ask about chicken wings.

Some of the best chicken wings I've had have come from the Japanese place St Sushi. There are also good wings to be had at Lola Jeans and very recently there is a new food outlet called Stix in the Stack shipping container village doing Korean chicken (wings)—these are very good, after a battered fashion. I am yet to find extremely well done Buffalo style (with no batter) but generally speaking the wing situation is, as you see, by no means dire.

[madhair60]

Had best weekend ever in Newcastle. Everyone was so fucking lovely. Good pubs and food. Got a shag. Amazing.

[Neville Chamberlain]

Everyone was so fucking lovely. Good pubs and food. Got a shag. Amazing.

You wait till you go to Yeovil!

[BlodwynPig]

was better in 1992.

[hummingofevil]

Bit more.

Positive: you very close to some beautiful places for days out and walking. Northumberland coast, Cheviots, Hadrian's Wall country etc. Even gets like walking coast from South Shields to Sunderland is beautiful and you a lot closer to Lake District and Scotland than rest of England is.

Négative: depending what you used to it's a bit isolated from other parts of country. Edinburgh and Leeds are just over an hour on train but it does feel a bit out of the way (by England standards anyway). I'm on an extended holiday back in North Wales where transport is notoriosly shite but forgot what it's like to be so close to loads of places. Can be anywhere from Snowdonia to Birmingham to Huddersfield in no time which I kinda miss.

[mothman]

was better in 1992.

Blodders and I were both at uni there at about the same time. I lived there for five years, but have only gone back maybe four times since. The last time was in - bloody hell - 2004 and it felt very different, more upmarket places to drink than in "my day." Was weird to be there with my wife that last time, being some where I'd once felt like I knew well but didn't anymore. Maybe it's time for a weekend away there, together, again. Youngest daughter did ask me recently "when are yiou and mummy next going away so I can go to Granny's for a sleepover?"

[Shoulders?-Stomach!]

Newcastle is relatively isolated as far as meaningfully big cities go, but it's on the main line at least. Edinburgh/Durham/York/Leeds/Sheffield ain't a bad line of cities to be linked up to.

Not to mention Alnmouth.

[imitationleather]

It has a Pizza Punks.

[BlodwynPig]

Newcastle is relatively isolated as far as meaningfully big cities go, but it's on the main line at least. Edinburgh/Durham/York/Leeds/Sheffield ain't a bad line of cities to be linked up to.

Not to mention Alnmouth.

Alnmouth is a good night out. And i mean night

[shithead]

I've lived abroad and in London but always ended up coming back to Newcastle.

I think it's the only place I'd want to live in the UK these days, with the possible exception of Glasgow/Edinburgh.

The city is beautiful, far more so than Leeds, Birmingham, Sheffield or Manchester (Liverpool gives it a good run for its money). It's alao compact, but big enough that its suburbs feel like separate areas in their own right.

There's plenty going on, Northumberland is spectacular (coast and inland), and it's near Scotland and the Lakes.

It *does* feel geographically isolated from the rest of England, which is good and bad. I always think it almost seems like a separate country in a way.

All the suggestions for areas to live above seem pretty solid to me. Don't rule out Morpeth (pricy, but nice and very good rail connection to Newcastle), and the Tyne Valley (Ryton, Prudhoe, Wylam, Hexham).

It's the home of Viz.

[Captain Crunch]

Solid gold advice so far, thank you everyone.

I can give you a run-down of many of the pipe organs if that is of use.

I do enjoy a bit of a parp and a quick search suggests there's a lot of lunchtime showcases to enjoy so that's another bonus.  I know it's not an organ but we were lucky enough to do the tower tour of the Civic Centre a few weeks ago to see the amazing Carillon in action.  Superb, well worth doing if you get the chance:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VN_-uc6y3SQ

Places to live

Shieldfield seems to be the most appealing area to live so far – nice and central, nice mix of houses, reasonable prices, well cared for, cats on sheds....  The west areas of Leazes / Elswick / Spital Tongues (how?) are on the list to check out but feel a bit less connected as the Metro seems to stop short of the west of town.  Any advice on these would be much appreciated. 

if you fancy a daytrip to Embra for the Fringe you can get there in 1hr 40 mins

This is another big plus, being able to do Scottish day trips is the stuff of dreams.   

You forgot to ask about chicken wings.

Still trying to get my head round the stottie and 'dip' at the moment.

It has a Pizza Punks.

Yeah but that will have folded before Christmas so I'm not too worried about it. 

I keep missing the Tynemouth market and I'm not sure if boot sales are a thing up there?  It seems to be only Essex that are mad keen on boot sales.

[Nice Relaxing Poo]

Is Ouseburn still going strong? Easily my favourite part of Newcastle and the nicotine yellow walls and ceiling of the Free Trade are a thing of wonder, a relic of times past.

[idunnosomename]

Probably the most boring CoE cathedral in England. Aside from the steeple. I'm including bullshit like Chelmsford, Wakefield and Bradford in this.

Anyway, if you are bald and like to walk around in a white T shirt in all weathers, it's great.

[Sebastian Cobb]

It's probably nearly 15 years since I went to Newcastle. I got a Knifehandchop cd from Steel Wheels.

Is Steel Wheels still going? Does it still have a man whose only job is to hold up a steel wheels sign on a stick like a lollipop man?

[canadagoose]

I keep missing the Tynemouth market and I'm not sure if boot sales are a thing up there?  It seems to be only Essex that are mad keen on boot sales.

They're certainly popular in the Borders, so I imagine Northumbrian towns will have them too. Alnwick and Morpeth will surely have a few. I know there was a regular one in Ancrum that attracted a lot of people, but even though it's straight up the A68 it'll be poorly-served by public transport so probably not much hope. [edit: Yep, had a look, and I'd forgotten how shite public transport is between Dalkeith and Ponteland. Utter shite. Never mind.]

I'm certainly a fan of Newcastle, btw. No shortage of things to do, some lovely buildings, and if you need some solitude the Northumbrian countryside is a stone's throw away.

[Nice Relaxing Poo]

Probably the most boring CoE cathedral in England. Aside from the steeple. I'm including bullshit like Chelmsford, Wakefield and Bradford in this.

Tbf the first thing I look for in any conurbation that I visit is the architectural significance of the CoE place of worship.


This is why Chichester will always rank above places like Newcastle for liveability for me.

[mothman]

Newcastle has a cathedral? Christ, what did I even do there for five years?

[canadagoose]

Newcastle has a cathedral? Christ, what did I even do there for five years?

It's a city, isn't it? Bound to have one.