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It means something to me. Oh, Vienna

Started by Shoulders?-Stomach!, January 29, 2019, 08:50:28 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Shoulders?-Stomach!

I visited Vienna for a couple of days in 2015 but other than visiting the Schonbrunn palace I got whatever the Austrian version is of Paris Syndrome and didn't enjoy it that much. I remember spending an hour simply doing loops on the number 1 tram that goes around the ring of the old town. Handy for very lazy sightseeing.

Anyway, I'm back for one day only on 9th Feb, taking the train from Bratislava via Marchegg, easily my favourite obscure Austrian town name.

I've had a look online, of course, but would be grateful for any recommendations to help me put together a grand day out..

The itinerary would be something like:

Arrive
Central activity + general sightseeing
Lunch at a traditional Beisl, preferably a cosy old untouristy one with its original décor.
A drink at a decent brew pub or outstandingly interesting bar (don't seem to have many of those)
Afternoon activity - happy to get a ubahn or tram out somewhere if necessary - also happy to do something offbeat rather than Serious Civic Times, but open minded
Back to the city for a beer or two, maybe some casual food then train back to Bratislava at 8.

I'm also going to Trnava and Trencin the day after but it's much easier to plan those for obvious reasons. Nevertheless if you have any tips for those places and are willing to share them here, you make me happy.

im barry bethel

Quote from: Shoulders?-Stomach! on January 29, 2019, 08:50:28 AM
Arrive
Central activity + general sightseeing
Lunch at a traditional Beisl, preferably a cosy old untouristy one with its original décor.
A drink at a decent brew pub or outstandingly interesting bar (don't seem to have many of those)
Afternoon activity - book a whore from the 30 Schilling list happy to get a ubahn or tram out somewhere if they don't charge for extras - also happy to do something involving a German Shepherd or Doberman, but open minded
Back to the city for a beer or two, maybe some casual food then train back to Bratislava at 8.

madhair60


Cuellar

I went to Vienna once. We camped in a campsite outside the city, and waiting on the platform of the suburban railway line I saw a boy of about 10 marching up and down singing 'Juden Juden'.

Then, in the city itself I saw a man chasing another man down an underground platform shouting 'Polizei! Polizei!'.

Later that day I saw a waiter tearing after a waif and collaring him.

Horrible place. Burn it down.


Sony Walkman Prophecies

I'd highly recommend watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFZBOTgL_Hk

...gives a good overview of all the galleries/museums worth checking out. Also more obscure stuff e.g. the house the philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein had built.

I'm going to go sometime during summer I think. Spent all my cash recently visiting Paris. Have fun!

Shoulders?-Stomach!



Glebe

That sounds nice. Good for you, Shoulders.

shiftwork2

Get your nice holidays in before March 29th.  It's Holiday On The Buses after that.  Blocked drains.  Piss on toast for breakfast.

BlodwynPig

I hate Vienna. Worst food, worst people, some of the buildings are OK, but a general sense of ennui. Butterfly house is ok.

Shoulders?-Stomach!

Quote from: BlodwynPig on January 29, 2019, 02:45:18 PM
I hate Vienna. Worst food, worst people, some of the buildings are OK, but a general sense of ennui. Butterfly house is ok.

I enjoyed the food actually. You know...goulash, cabbage, noodles, schnitzel, dumplings. Fine by me (though things improve dramatically in Hungary when paprika and fresh fish gets involved). Can't imagine what eating Canadian food every week is like, mind.

But yes, I did find it oddly careworn and flustered actually, and that was in the summer last time. In contrast Bratislava is very fun. It's small and mainly dull outside the old town but doesn't have that uber-urban stressiness.

Perhaps a winter visit to Vienna with the mansions snowcapped and the streets emptier will be more enjoyable.

I was thinking of watching the film The Third Man to help get in the mood. Apparently there's a Museum only open Saturday afternoons (when I'm there), which could be an option. Unless I hate the film.

pancreas

Quote from: BlodwynPig on January 29, 2019, 02:45:18 PM
I hate Vienna. Worst food, worst people, some of the buildings are OK, but a general sense of ennui. Butterfly house is ok.

It is rather joyless and staid, isn't it?

BlodwynPig

Quote from: pancreas on January 29, 2019, 03:26:55 PM
It is rather joyless and staid, isn't it?

Some of it - obviously not historically. All the foods that Shoulders' mentions are delights, but you can get better Schnitzel in the suburbs of Munich and the blueberries and pancakes was a particular low. I was sick to the stomach. The only thing that brought me joy was the little teddy bear shop near the main square.

Shoulders?-Stomach!

Quote from: pancreas on January 29, 2019, 03:26:55 PM
It is rather joyless and staid, isn't it?

Sadly. I suppose the pomp would be more impressive if London didn't do it about ten times better.

But surely one can max out a day out without being stained by the morosity.

pancreas

Still, I suppose it did give us the Viennetta.

Cuellar

The campsite we stayed in was full of burly, vested, unhappy looking men accompanied by their thin, vested, unhappy looking sons.

This was it in fact: http://www.campingwien.at/en/camping-wien-neue-donau/

Didn't help that it slashed it down most days and our one-man-but-with-two-in Bottom-style tent began to leak.

Ian Drunken Smurf

Quote from: Shoulders?-Stomach! on January 29, 2019, 08:50:28 AM
I visited Vienna for a couple of days in 2015 but other than visiting the Schonbrunn palace I got whatever the Austrian version is of Paris Syndrome and didn't enjoy it that much. I remember spending an hour simply doing loops on the number 1 tram that goes around the ring of the old town. Handy for very lazy sightseeing.

Anyway, I'm back for one day only on 9th Feb.

I've had a look online, of course, but would be grateful for any recommendations to help me put together a grand day out..

The itinerary would be something like:

Arrive
Central activity + general sightseeing
Lunch at a traditional Beisl, preferably a cosy old untouristy one with its original décor.
A drink at a decent brew pub or outstandingly interesting bar (don't seem to have many of those)
Afternoon activity - happy to get a ubahn or tram out somewhere if necessary - also happy to do something offbeat rather than Serious Civic Times, but open minded
Back to the city for a beer or two, maybe some casual food then train back to Bratislava at 8.

Been living in Vienna for 18 years. So will try and come up with a few suggestions...

Ok, you'll arrive at Hauptbahnhof from Bratislava (presumably leaving from main station there too)

U1 into the very city centre is about 10-12 minutes from Hauptbhf. (to Stephansdom)

Otherwise have a walk from the Hauptbhf through Belvedere down to the Rennweg and then on towards the Ring (20 mins walk) if you want to see The Kiss, it is in Belvedere, along with where the declaration of Neutrality was signed.

The first district (inside the Ring) is touristy and pricey and not so reasonably priced Beisl loaded. If you walk from Opera House to the Hofburg you will see a few places. And then you could also see the Rathaus. Behind the Rathaus there are a few less touristy Beisl (eg. on Landesgerichtstrasse).

Otherwise Burggasse and Spittelberg have some good less touristy Beisl and some bars. There are also some old style bars, as well as the usual hipster central places.

Siebensternbräu is a bit touristy but has a mixture of beers. Zur alten Bäckerei also has good beers near Spittelberg.

Not sure if you are into photography, but Westbahnstrasse near the Gürtel (49 tram from Volkstheater) has so photogalleries invlude Westlicht.

Cheeky beer and Käsekrainer at a sausage stand  before the train back or maybe a Käseleberkäse Semmel from Leberkas Pepi at the station when you leave.

Any kind of prefered beers? Craft stuff starting to come in, although can be quite overpriced.

I tend to go for Stiegl or Murauer or Gösser for Austrian beers.

Ian Drunken Smurf

For Bratislava, go to the Skoda retro cafe.

Škodovka - www.skodovka.net


Shoulders?-Stomach!

Thanks IDS

I'm happy with stock helles/weizen/dunkel stuff (not a fan of Gosser, sorry) but likewise open to trying brewpub wares. Ideally if there are any regional Austrian beers or particularly difficult to find styles. I've been to 1516 in the centre and thought they were a bit meh. Wouldn't want to go there again when I'm just there for a day.

https://www.viennawurstelstand.com/guide/10-of-viennas-most-gemutliche-gasthauser/

Are any of these worth a look?

Ian Drunken Smurf

Quote from: Shoulders?-Stomach! on January 29, 2019, 10:38:25 PM
Thanks IDS

I'm happy with stock helles/weizen/dunkel stuff (not a fan of Gosser, sorry) but likewise open to trying brewpub wares. Ideally if there are any regional Austrian beers or particularly difficult to find styles. I've been to 1516 in the centre and thought they were a bit meh. Wouldn't want to go there again when I'm just there for a day.

https://www.viennawurstelstand.com/guide/10-of-viennas-most-gemutliche-gasthauser/

Are any of these worth a look?

Gösser Bierklinik is very central but tucked away down a side street and I have been there a couple of times. But the beer is Gösser...

Wild is near Hundertwasserhaus so the two might be worth combining.

I used to go to 1516 a bit, but it is quite average. Think you get a better beer at Plutzerbräu or Siebensternbräu in Spittelberg.

The Würstelstand page has quite a few places out in the outer districts (not a bad thing per se but might be a bit of a detour). Will have a think about a few more central ones.

Lisa Jesusandmarychain

What's the name of that artist/ architect feller what has trees growing inside his buidings? The branches go out of one window, and go back into another one, and that.

Ian Drunken Smurf

Quote from: Lisa Jesusandmarychain on January 30, 2019, 07:30:26 AM
What's the name of that artist/ architect feller what has trees growing inside his buidings? The branches go out of one window, and go back into another one, and that.

Hundertwasser!

Ian Drunken Smurf

One possible place to try, convenient for a couple of beers before you get the train back is Fassldippler

www.fassldippler.at

Think this might be what you are looking for for beers.

Ian Drunken Smurf

Quote from: Ian Drunken Smurf on January 30, 2019, 07:45:49 AM
One possible place to try, convenient for a couple of beers before you get the train back is Fassldippler

www.fassldippler.at

Think this might be what you are looking for for beers.

Bugger. Just seen it is closed Saturdays.

Lisa Jesusandmarychain

Quote from: Ian Drunken Smurf on January 30, 2019, 07:44:21 AM
Hundertwasser!

Yeah, that's the badger. Was quite impressed by his buildings when I was in Vienna. Also did the "Third Man" thing on that big wheel.
Well, there's my contribution to this thread.

Shoulders?-Stomach!

I might drop by hundertwasser, so if anything else is in the vicinity that justifies the trip out that end of town that'd be grrrreeeeeeaaaat.

Puce Moment

My wife (MY WIFE) briefly lived and worked in Vienna in 2013 - actually a beautiful place on the outskirts called Laxenberg which I encourage people to visit, alongside the near-by town of Mödling.

I disliked Vienna the city rather a lot - the smoking is annoying, it is surprisingly shit, dirty and smelly, which for me rubs up rather queasily with all the examples of Habsburg excess that features on so many streets.

On the other hand, the Kunsthistorisches Museum is just about one of the most impressive art galleries in the world, so I would be inclined to hide in their all day. Also, the modern art museum is also really good, although naturally this is hit and miss.

Shoulders?-Stomach!

Laxenburg looks lovely. Probably not for this time around.

I am considering that art gallery, thanks for the recommendation.


Ian Drunken Smurf

Quote from: Shoulders?-Stomach! on January 30, 2019, 08:02:32 AM
I might drop by hundertwasser, so if anything else is in the vicinity that justifies the trip out that end of town that'd be grrrreeeeeeaaaat.

Another Hundertwasser place by the HW-Haus is the Kunsthaus Wien.

https://www.kunsthauswien.com/en/

Has its exhibitions. Could combine the two with a trip to Wild (as mentioned above it is one of the places in the Wurstelstand list I have been to and could recommend).